Fur Trappers
Peter Skene Ogden’s Expedition
In 1826, French-Canadian fur trapper Peter Skene Ogden led a large expedition of Hudson Bay Company trappers into the Harney Basin. The expedition sought beaver, river otters, and other fur-bearing animals in the Basin’s rivers and wetlands. Ogden and his company remained on the north side of Malheur, Mud, and Harney Lakes. If they had traveled to the south side of Malheur Lake, however, they would have found fresh water at the spring near today’s Refuge headquarters, as well as the abundant plant and animal resources of the Blitzen Valley.
Encounters with the Paiutes
When the expedition arrived in late fall, the trappers encountered Paiute Indians camped along the shores of the lakes. The Hudson Bay Company frequently expected local tribes to provide food for large expedition groups. The Paiutes, however, were entering winter after a very unproductive summer and could not assist the explorers with food.
On November 3, Ogden documented the expedition’s hardships and described the Paiutes and their small villages. He also recorded the difficulties the Paiutes faced because of a lack of food:
“From 4 a.m. snow has fallen. This will make it difficult for my 2 express men from Ft. Vancouver to find our tracks though every precaution was taken making marks at different camps; if only the Indians do not destroy these marks. It is incredible the number of Indians in this quarter. We cannot go 10 yards, without finding them. Huts generally of grass of a size to hold 6 or 8 persons. No Indian nation is so numerous as these in all of North America. I include both Upper and Lower Snakes....They lead a most wandering life. An old woman camped with us the other night and the information I have found most correct. From the severe weather last year, her people were reduced for want of food...Unfortunate creatures what privations you are doomed to endure; what an example for us at present reduced to one meal a day, how loudly and grievously we complain; when I consider the Snake's sufferings compared to our own! Many a day they pass without food and without a murmur. Had they arms and ammunition they might resort to buffalo; but without this region the war tribes would soon destroy them. This country is bare of beaver to enable them to procure arms. Indian traders cannot afford to supply them for free. Before this happens a wonderful change must happen. One of Mr. McKay’s parties was sent back to request us to raise camp and follow his tracks. A chain of lakes [most likely the springs in the Double-O area] was all they had seen, no game. Truly, gloomy are our prospects.”
Declining Prospects
Prospects did not improve for the company. On November 4, Ogden recorded:
“Raised camp taking the west course and soon reached the end of Salt Lake [Malheur lake] not near so long as I expected, in some parts nearly 5 miles wide and deep, its borders flat and sandy. In the evening we camped near three small lakes [east side of Malheur Lake ]. Swans numerous. Tho’ 100 shots fired, not one killed. Nothing but wormwood this day. Salt (?) Lake maybe 10 miles in length. Mr. McKay and the party arrived with the following accounts – no beaver, same-level country a chain of lakes of fresh water. This adds to the general gloom prevailing in camp, with all in a starving condition, so that plots are forming (among) the Freemen to separate. Should we not find animals our horses will fall to the kettle. I am at a loss how to act.”
On November 5, the expedition decided to abandon trapping in the area and proceed westward:
“Bad as prospects were yesterday they are worse today. It snowed all night and day. If this snow does not disappear our express men will never reach us. I hope they will not fall prey to the Snakes. I intend to take the nearest route I can discover to the Clammiitte [Klamath] Country. My provisions are fast decreasing. The hunters are discouraged. Day after day from morning to night in quest of animals; but not one track do they see.”
The Origin of the Name “Malheur”
The lack of available food and the scarcity of fur-bearing animals around the lakes led Ogden to write the name “Malheur,” the French word for misfortune, on his maps of the area. From that time on, the area became identified with Malheur Lake. Ogden mistakenly believed that the lake was connected with the Malheur River, and the river consequently received its name. Nearly 20 years would pass before the next significant presence of Euro-Americans in the Basin.