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his refuge on the Atlantic Coast of Massachusetts could have just
as easily been named for the barrier island that it occupies. About
three-quarters of Plum Island is within the confines of the Parker
River National Wildlife Refuge. But refuge officials in 1941 chose
instead to recognize the 23-mile coastal river that terminates
in the 3,000-acre labyrinth of salt marshes that lie inside
the refuge boundary on the mainland side of the island. Plum Island
itself was regaled by ornithologists through the years for its attractiveness
to over 300 species of birds. The island, however, was destined
to become a seaside resort. It once contained five hotels. The purchase
of over 1,500 acres in the 1930s for a private wildlife sanctuary
changed the direction of the island's future. The sanctuary played
a pivotal role in the establishment of Parker River NWR.
Wildlife conservationists will appreciate the value of the diversity of Parker River NWR with its 4,652 acres of marches, beaches, and dunes. By automobile, bicycle, canoe, or foot, visitors can witness the varied habitats and animal life they support. Plumb Island, as it was earlier spelled, was used during colonial times for its resources, trees for lumber, salt hay for bedding and mulching, and its marshes for grazing livestock. Its earliest occupants were confined to the Pest House, a hospital built in 1769 to quarantine sailors with smallpox and yellow fever. They would be unloaded from diseased ships sailing up the Merrimack River to Newburyport from foreign ports. As transportation progressed from steamboats to bridges and the Plum Island Turnpike, the northern end of the island was developed with hotels and private homes and cottages. Horsecar service began in 1887 and ran until replaced by electric trolleys. Buses and automobiles became the only conveyances in 1922. By 1920, 315 private residences existed. In 2002, the extension of water and sewer service from the mainland is still being hotly debated. Housing developments were proposed for the southern end of the 9-mile island, but never came to fruition due mainly to access that was limited to water transportation. Nevertheless, from the late 1800s until early 1900s, the Grape Island and Stage Island areas of Plum Island were poplular tourist attractions with hotels, cottages, and social events served by regularly scheduled excursion steamers from the mainland. The first decent road running the length of the island was built by the refuge. The Plum Island marshes were favorite hunting grounds for both sport and market hunters. Birds were so plentiful that one hunter is claimed to have shot 40 birds with only two discharges of his gun. Waterfowl and shorebirds were shot in such numbers that noticeable declines in bird populations resulted in progressively strict hunting laws beginning in 1909 when the state banned spring hunting. The most significant turning point in the island's history is without doubt the purchase of land for a private sanctuary. By 1936 most of the southern end of the island had been purchased first by the Federation of Bird Clubs of New England and then the Massachusetts Audubon Society with bequests from Annie Hamilton Brown of Stoneham, protecting the island from further development and setting the stage for the establishment of Parker River NWR. After the two groups merged, the Audubon continued the purchases and retained wardens who would patrol for hunters who challenged the hunting prohibition invoked on the sanctuary named after its benefactor. In 1943, the Audubon Society sold its 1,600-acre sanctuary to the federal government much to the dismay of local hunters who feared a larger refuge with more hunting restrictions on areas that had been available to them. Indeed, refuge purchases proceeded and the hue-and-cry was so great that as many as 7,000 acres of refuge was divested soon after purchase with land going back to original owners or transferred to the state. The built-up animosity disappeared over time, however, with the growing realization that the refuge brought with it protection from development. Soon after the refuge was established, the colorful history of the U.S. Life Saving Service ended. Crews from Knobs Beach Station patrolled what is now refuge beach, responding to sailing ships in distress in the treacherous waters off Plum Island and saving countless mariners. With the advent of modern ships and more precise navigation, the station was closed at the end of World War II. But that did not end the use of the station's buildings. With an epidemic of infantile paralysis at its peak, area people leased the station for Camp Sea Haven, a facility for the recreation and therapy of children stricken with the crippling disease. With strong community support, the camp expanded its facilities and was serving as many as 250 children in a summer season. Attention was switched to children with cerebral palsy after the Salk vaccine was created and the camp continued in operation until 1987 when it closed. Although there was interest in a reopening, a use permit was not forthcoming from the refuge and the buildings were removed. - Jim Clark Directions: From I-95, Route 113 east and Route 1A south 3.5 miles to traffic signal at Rolf's Lane, left 0.5 mile to end at Plum Island Turnpike, right to Plum Island and Sunset Drive, right to refuge entrance gate. To headquarters, continue on Plum Island Turnpike to end and Northern Boulevard, left 1.4 miles to entrance on left. New visitor center is at intersection of Rolfe's Lane and Plum Island Turnpike. Daily entrance fees are $5 per vehicle or $2 on foot or bicycle. Annual passes are $12. Holders of Golden Access and Golden Age Passports are admitted free. Parker River NWR 261 Northern Blvd. Newburyport, MA 01950 978.465.5753 http://parkerriver.fws.gov Plum Island: The Way It Was by Nancy V. Weare is an excellent historical account of the island.
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